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Start ::  Cornwall24 Discussion ::  Cornwall24 Discussion Board ::  How to measure a wave
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How to measure a wave
Me Posted: 29.03.2007, 19:14

Me

registered: Oct. 2004
Posts: 214

Status: offline
last visit: 03.04.08 		HOW TO MEASURE A WAVE

Written by Ricky Grigg (Ultimate big wave & surf legend)

Full article on: http://www.a1surf.com/cgi-bin/news2/newsscript.pl?record=48

http://www.a1surf.com/images/newsscript/ricky_grigg_1955.jpg
http://www.a1surf.com/images/claudia/5.jpg

Ricky Grigg's words...

Once upon a time, an old Hawaiian surfer told me that those surfers who measure from the back have already missed the wave. Of course, you could argue that surfers who measure the wave from the back do so on purpose so that they can purposefully underestimate their size. But why would anyone want to do that you ask? Perhaps they are the macho guys. "Shucks ma, that overhead wave is only three feet, at least to me. Its no big deal".

But then one day a wise guy like me comes along and says, "Three feet, for an overhead wave? What are you anyway, only three feet tall?"

The 5'6 surfer says, "Huh? What? Are you blind?"

"No" I say, "maybe you are blind. That overhead wave was way over your fully upright body."

"Hey man," he tells me, "you measure waves from the back."

I say, "You mean the back of the wave you can't see?"

And of course he says, "Right on, dude, right on."

Full article on: http://www.a1surf.com/cgi-bin/news2/newsscript.pl?record=48





edited by: Me, Mar 29, 2007 - 07:24 PM
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chris Posted: 29.03.2007, 21:48

chris

registered: Jul. 2004
Posts: 1405

Status: offline
last visit: 01.08.08 		Measuring waves from the back is such bullshit! Obviously you have to do it to be taken seriously, but why!!!

For example 3 foot Fistral might have a 4 or 5 ft face, where as 3 foot Teahupu could be absolutely huge. It's all down to who calls it the smallest and therefore obviously has the biggest balls!
So if I turn up at 6-8ft Portleven and start loudly declaring it is 4ft everybody thinks I have huge Kahonas! Then I mutter something about surfing a secret reef around the corner and drive home!
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TeamKernow Posted: 29.03.2007, 22:45

TeamKernow

registered: Nov. 2005
Posts: 2274

Status: offline
last visit: 19.11.08 		There was a quite scarey 6 inch wave up at Toni & Guy Hairdressers, Princes Street, Truro the other day.

Quite sucky!

Needed a ducky dive!

Let knitwear take the strain.





edited by: TeamKernow, Mar 29, 2007 - 10:50 PM
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